Takko Town
Hironori and
Masako Taneko

Born into a family that has run a vegetable farm for 200 years since the Bunsei era (1818–1831), Hironori Taneko was a university student when his father told him that the business might close. After deciding to become the heir to the family business, he never looked back.
The garlic he grows attracts many top-notch chefs, and with his talent as a spokesman, he is creating a new chapter in the history of the Taneko Garlic Farm.

From Growing to Eating Telling the Story of Garlic

“Today, you will experience the ‘most beautiful scenery’ in Takko Town," he said. He then led us to a vast garlic field of Taneko Garlic Farm. As we gently pulled out the slightly withered leaves and stems, plump, fat garlic cloves emerged from the soft soil. When we peeled off the thin, soil-covered skin, we saw that the inside was so white it almost shone. The symmetrical shape told us that the garlic had grown in good health. What a beautiful thing garlic is. If one considers the thoughts of the growers and the many years of cultivation, this is surely among the most beautiful sceneries in Takko Town.
Taneko Garlic Farm is one of the oldest and most established farms in the region, dating back to 1826. Although Hironori is the sixth generation of the family, following his father’s footsteps was never a career option for him.
“I studied law at university, thinking I was going to go straight into that fi eld, so I was surprised when my father told me that he might have to close the farm, " said Hironori.
Upon returning to Takko Town, he set out to learn cultivation procedures and simultaneously revamp the management, a task made possible because he had never been in the agricultural fi eld before.
“At that time, my father was running the farm in a typical old-fashioned way. He couldn't stand to have an empty fi eld, so he planted millet, Japanese millet, black beans, or whatever he could get his hands on to fi ll the field. However, diversifying the crops in such a way took a lot of time and effort but did not lead to income. When I realized this, I immediately narrowed down the cultivation to a single crop of garlic.”
Another initiative Hironori undertook was to diversify his sales outlets. He focused on disseminating information from the farm using a blog, which was still rare at the time he started farming, and actively participated in trade fairs. He has also been willing to accept offers of hands-on workshops, business tours, and even TV and radio interviews, all with the aim of spreading the risk and meeting more chefs and shops that appreciate the value of the farm’s garlic. Reading through the blog archives, we find that some amazing chefs have served garlic from the farm in their restaurants or visited the farm.
One notable chef who visited and became a fan of the farm is Masako, then the chef at a starred French restaurant in Tokyo and now Hironori’s wife. “Generally speaking, garlic tends to be a secret ingredient or a behind-the-scenes contributor. However, the garlic I tasted here had a depth of flavor that could stand alongside other ingredients, complementing and enhancing the taste," she recalls. After marrying Hironori, she launched a French delicatessen brand called "Ail Taneko" and is widely spreading the charm of Takko's garlic both inside and outside the community by holding cooking classes and exhibiting at events. "Adding Takko's garlic to everyday dishes upgrades the flavor. I wish more people outside the community, as well as those in the region, would know about its quality." “I knew from the beginning that even if a dish was highly acclaimed in Tokyo, it was not necessarily the right answer to serve it here as is. That said, it also would not be right to reintroduce garlic dishes that are already well-established in Japan, such as garlic miso. What kind of dishes would give garlic a new appeal while making it more widely accepted? I am still searching for the answer as I develop my recipes.”
Through these activities, the duo aims to help revitalize not only their own farm, but also the town's garlic cultivation as a whole. Hironori, who once attracted attention as the town's youngest garlic grower, is now a member of the local agricultural committee and is busy bringing in the next generation to the aging community.
This year's crop is also very good. The garlics he produced with all his might will soon fi nish drying and be delivered to various regions. “The busy harvest season tightens not only my mind but also my body,” jokes Hironori. “Takko's garlic makes the food more delicious as if your cooking skills have improved. We will continue to spread the word so that many people can experience the joy,” says Masako.

Interviewed in July, 2024
Writer : Mikiko Tamaki / Photographer : Chisato Hikita